Argyle Practice
I worked up a bit of an argyle swatch this week in preparation for knitting the argyle sock for Level II. I think it turned out very well, although I see some areas I will need to work on.I have a 1954, Grace Ennis, argyle sock pattern. The gauge requirement is 10 stitches per inch. I lucked out and got gauge on the very first try using size 2.25 mm needles and Lang Jawoll sock yarn purchased locally.
To do the motif I've been picking up the new yarn from under the old at the colour change, and the technique hasn't been leaving any holes, but there is some irregularity where the two colours change, particularly on the right leaning slants. In that area I end up with the old colour looking a bit loose and sloppy and the new colour being a bit tight and distorted.
Anyone have any suggestions on how to alleviate this problem?
3 comments:
Would the question of dominant hand vs the other one help?
Gillian
Well if I understand your meaning Gillian then the answer would be no. I am knitting the whole thing with the same hand, not alternately with both hands as I do with stranded knitting. Argyle is done like intarsia. The colours are not carried across the piece, but each section has it's own strand of yarn that is picked up and dropped as needed. The yarns are just twisted together to prevent the holes.
I've had it suggested that it is because the yarn goes from a stitch in a lower row, diagonally across to one row above and one stitch over, effectively placing a different tension on the yarn due to the slant.
Thanks though!
I haven't seen them (yet), but I've heard raves about Lucy Neatby's Intarsia DVDs. I have her Gems DVDs and I'm amazed how much I've learned just watching her knit and purl! It might be worth it to check out the Intarsia DVDs. Good luck!
Lisa
Post a Comment